Retractable Drying Rack
- One roll of bead board wall paper
- One 2×4 pre-cut birch wood (1/2 inch thick)–I had the nice guys at Lowes cut 7 inches off the length, so my final board size was 24×41.
- Two 1/2×2′ poplar boards-for inner frame with dowels (I bought pre-primed)
- Two 1/2×4′ poplar boards-for outer frame (I bought pre-primed)
- Two 2×2 birchwood boards (1/4 inch thick)
- Four 3/8′ dowel rods (48′ long)
- Narrow pin hinge (set of two)
- D-ring hangers for mounting on the wall
- Hinged bracket for the side
- Two Round Magnets
- Steel Wood Joiners
- Wood Glue
- Liquid Nails
- Spray Paint
There are also a few tools you will need to complete this project:
a drill, a 3/8 drill bit, hammer, framing nails, screwdriver, saw
(optional- nail gun)
Cover the front side of your pre-cut birch wood with bead board wall paper. (Follow the directions inside the package).
While that is drying, measure and cut your boards for the outer frame. I cut mine at 40¾x26.
Once wall paper is dry, attach your outer frame to the birch wood. I placed wood glue on first then I used my nail gun. You can also use finishing nails.
Measure and cut your inner frame. I cut mine at 37×24¾.Then cut your dowels, I cut my at 22½. Next drill holes for your dowel using a 3/8 bit. I spaced mine 5 inches apart except for the last one-which is 4 inches from the bottom. (To me, the last one didn’t look like it was spaced as evenly as the others. Like I mentioned before…I was really trying to make an exact replica!) Tip: I used my Kreg Jig to help hold the board secure while I drilled.
Insert your dowels into the holes and hammer into place with a mallet. I also placed a tiny drop off wood glue inside each hole just for extra strength. Then finish the frame by attaching the remaining top and bottom pieces with finishing nails. The nails will need to be 3 inches long. Tip: I pre-drilled holes through the top/bottom board to guide the nails. Less you risk splitting the boards.
Attach your two 1/4 inch birchwood boards to the inside of the frame, both at top and bottom. To secure it, I used some liquid nails and my nail gun. If you have any boo boos, this will hide them nicely.
Here you see the nail gun gone bad…
And here you don’t (it’s our little secret!)
Time to spray paint. I used RustOleum White with a satin finish.
Attach your pin hinge with your screwdriver. Then attach your hinged bracket for the side.
To attach your magnets to the frame I first measured and placed these steel wood joiners…
They have very sharp spikes attached to them. I simply hammered them into the underside of the frame. Then I stuck the magnet to the metal. When the magnets were attached, I placed super glue on their backs. I then just closed the frame and pressed down. That’s how I achieved perfectly lined up metal to magnet. ( I did notice that my magnets were not as even as I would have liked but I couldn’t move them. It isn’t called Super glue for nothin’. I wish I wasn’t such a perfectionist!)
Now it’s ready to hang on your laundry room wall.
And yes, I even made my own Laundry Sign.
You could buy one from Ballard Designs for $45 (plus tax and shipping)
or you could make one.
I grabbed my letters at Micheal’s. I already had the board, liquid nails and spray paint.
I am accessorizing my laundry room with black and
I love how the sign adds some nice contrast.
Now I have a nice place to having my delicate clothing…
you know what I mean ladies, your lingerie.